Cycling for Beginners: The Simple Complete Guide to Getting Started

I didn't really start cycling until I was an adult. My marriage had dissolved, so I sold my wedding rings and bought the best bike and trainer that I could afford: a basic, women's Diamondback and a simple smart trainer. I was so afraid of speed and going downhill that, with hands clenched on the bars, I would squeeze my brakes until they squealed in protest and I screeched to a halt. My first rides were not graceful or fast, but they offered me a newfound feeling of freedom and accomplishment.

Whether you're brand new, getting back on after a few years (or kids, or an injury) away, or you just want to ride to work – this guide is for you. I know the feeling of being new, of not knowing how your bike is supposed to fit or feel, and being terrified to ride on real roads. If that's you, keep reading and we'll make sense of what's important together.

How to be a cyclist

Just ride your bike. You don't need much to get started: just a helmet and a bike. Any reasonable bike will do, whether you found it at a garage sale or borrowed it from your cousin. Don't overcomplicate it; strap on your helmet, hop on that bike and pedal.

Congratulations! You're now a cyclist.

So what do you actually need to ride a bike?

If you've ever watched a bike race on TV, you've seen high-tech carbon frames, skin-tight speedsuits and GPS computers. You do not need any of that to get started.

Bike essentials

• You need a bike. To get started, you need a safe, working bike of any kind that you can comfortably fit on.
• Helmet. You need a helmet that fits well and feels good on you.
• Water. A bottle of water goes a long way to feeling better on the bike.
• Comfortable clothes. My first ride was in a pair of Old Navy leggings, a polar tech fleece and Converse sneakers. It got the job done! Anything comfortable is good, just nothing long or floppy that could get caught in your chain.

Nice to have

If you have a little bit to invest in your new cycling journey, there are a few 'nice to have' items that increase your comfort and confidence.

• Padded bike shorts. These are Lycra/Spandex shorts with a built-in pad, called a chamois. Sure, they might feel like you're waddling around in a diaper at first, but they will make sitting on that tiny bike seat much more comfortable.
• Smart trainer. I never once regretted purchasing a smart trainer, and combined with Zwift hardware, you'll be able to simulate outdoor ride conditions and routes so you can practise everything from clipping in to sprinting indoors.
• Saddlebag with a tube and bike levers. A saddlebag is a small bag that fits up underneath your bike seat (aka saddle). In it, keep a tube, handpump and bike levers so you don't get stranded by a flat tyre.
• Bike lights. A set of inexpensive bike lights (white in front, blinking red in the rear) will help you be spotted more easily on the road. If you're going to ride at night, lights are a must.

What to skip (for now)

Don't let anyone tell you that you must spend your entire retirement on a bike to be a real cyclist. The cost of equipment can add up fast, and it's probably better to get a handle on the type of riding you enjoy first, then figure out what items will make cycling more fun for you.

• Clipless pedals and cycling shoes. Clipless pedals and cycling shoes are great later on, but when you're new to cycling, it can be a little bit dangerous working on clipping in and out in traffic until you've got the basic bike skills down.
• Ultra-light carbon gear. Bikes and accessories made of carbon and titanium are definitely lightweight, but they're also expensive. Saving every little gram of weight won't make much difference unless you're racing.
• Heart rate and power meters. Don't spend money on heart rate and power meters unless you're ready to start a training programme. For now, the smartwatch you already wear can handle tracking your heart rate.
• Expensive bike computers. Most things you can do on a bike computer you can also do on your phone, like get directions, link your heart rate from your smartwatch and record your ride.
• Fancy cycling kits. There's no need for a fancy, matching cycling kit when a simple club jersey or even a Tech T will serve you just as well.

Getting comfy on your bike

People rarely quit because they don't like cycling. They quit because the bike doesn't feel good. Let's make sure you're feeling comfortable and safe when you ride, but don't be afraid to ask your local bike club or bike shop for help.

Saddle height. If your bike seat is too high, it will be hard to push down on the pedals and you'll feel unstable in the seat. If it's too low, your knees will feel like they're hitting your chest and it can feel hard to breathe.

To check, take off your shoes and sit on the bike (have a friend hold it up or just sit on it while holding onto a railing). Put your heels on the pedals and rotate them until one foot is all the way down. Your leg should be straight. If it's bent, your seat is too low. If you can't quite reach the bottom of the pedal stroke, your seat is too high.

TIP: Read our guide to bike fitting.

Braking. Most of your stopping power comes from the front brake (usually the left lever, but check your bike, because it's sometimes flipped). Grabbing it hard on its own can pitch you forward. So instead of clamping down, squeeze both levers together, gently and evenly. Brake before a turn, not in the middle of it, then ease off, look where you want to go and roll through. On descents, rest a couple of fingers lightly on the levers so you're ready. Everything feels less scary when the brakes are already under your fingertips.

Gears. Gears change how hard or easy it is to pedal. On most bikes the left lever controls the front gears (the chainrings) and makes big jumps; the right lever controls the rear gears and makes smaller, finer changes. Some bikes have only one front gear, or a slightly different setup, so take thirty seconds to click through yours in a safe spot and feel what each lever does. The rule is simple: if pedalling feels too hard, shift easier; if you're spinning with no resistance and going nowhere, shift harder. Don't be shy about shifting, it gets automatic fast.

Cadence. Cadence is just a fancy word for how fast you spin the pedals. While most riders settle around 85 to 90 RPM, everyone's ideal cadence will be a little bit different. When the cadence gets uncomfortably high or uncomfortably low, that's when you know you need to shift.

TIP: Read our article about cycling cadence and why it matters.

Your first rides

Don't overthink your first rides. Just get out there and have a little fun, enjoy the scenery and be safe. And if you're riding to work, that counts. A short commute a few times a week is one of the easiest ways to build fitness without scheduling a workout.

Go for time, not distance. Don't worry about certain cyclists' Strava rides, their distance or their power. Your body needs time to adjust, even if you're physically fit. So plan your rides for time. Start with a half hour ride (15 minutes each way), it will help your body adjust to the position and the mechanics of riding.

Ride at a conversational pace. You don't need to ride at a breakneck speed. Make it fun and ride at a conversational pace – you'll feel like you're making some effort, but you can still talk to the friend riding next to you. This will help you focus on building your skills and comfort level before you worry about getting fast (if that's even your goal).

Build up gradually. One of the biggest mistakes you can make is jumping into a heavy riding schedule when you're not used to it. If you're getting back on after a few years away, this is you especially: your enthusiasm remembers the rides you used to do, but your body needs reintroducing to them. Start from where you are now, not where you left off. Build up gradually by adding a little bit of time or speed each time you go for a ride to avoid injury and burnout.

How to handle hills

I have a few friends that consider themselves flatlanders, but you don't have to be one. Climbing hills is a skill that you can practise and get good at.

• Shift down. When you notice a hill coming up, shift into an easier gear before you get to the hill. The force on the pedals as you climb can make it hard to shift from a harder gear to an easier one, so it's better to start off too easy than too hard.
• Pace yourself. Forget huffing and puffing your way up that hill. Instead, take your time and pace yourself. Even as an experienced cyclist, I've gone out too hard, only to blow up before I reached the top of the hill. You're more likely to make it if you don't go too hard.

And if you do end up performing the 'walk of shame' pushing your bike up the last 100 metres while breathing like a freight train, welcome to the club. We've all been there.

Riding in the heat for beginners

Riding in hot weather can be a bit daunting, but a little preparation can go a long way to keeping you riding all summer long.

• First, hydrate. We sweat more when it's hot, so hydrate early and often – if you wait until you are thirsty, you're probably already dehydrated. You don't need to get too fancy with expensive cycling drinks, but mixing in electrolytes can help you stay hydrated. Make sure you drink some water before heading out in the heat. And remember that nothing tastes as good as ice cold gas station Coke when the temps are sweltering.
• Ride early. Try to time your rides for early morning or in the evening when the sun isn't directly overhead. The sun is hottest in the afternoon, usually between 11am and 4pm, so avoiding these times can help you stay cooler and prevent sunburn (but don't forget the sunscreen).
• Ease up. If you find it's really hot while you're out on your bike, take it easy. Slow your pace and switch to an easier gear. Don't try to smash climbs, just ride easy so you don't overheat. Your body works much harder when the temps are soaring, so you'll still get a good workout even if you feel like you're going extra slow.

Keep your nutrition simple

We hear racers talk about carb loading for days before a big race – but if you're just out for an easy spin, you don't need much.

• Pre-ride food. Before riding, eat something that's gentle on the stomach because you don't want to be sprinting for the bathroom instead of the street signs. I like a pre-ride bagel, oatmeal or porridge, or even flapjacks; just some simple, gentle carbohydrates for energy.
• During the ride. While you're riding, you'll want to make sure you hydrate well and consume some quick-digesting carbohydrates. If you're just doing a short easy spin, you don't have to go crazy, but if you're going to ride longer than an hour, you'll want to bring snacks like Rice Krispy Treats, Gummy Bears or peanut butter and jelly sandwiches. Don't overthink it – just make sure you're eating as you go. Cycling gels can be hard on your stomach when you're not used to them, so use with caution.
• Post-ride meals. After your ride, you'll want a little bit of protein and carbohydrate to replenish and rebuild those muscles. A glass of chocolate milk, a simple meal or another PBJ is probably enough. If you're cycling to lose weight, you'll still want to fuel your rides and cut out calories at other times.

TIP: Read our cycling nutrition guide on how to fuel smarter and ride longer.

Easy exercises before and after riding

Avoid walking like an ageing penguin the next day by doing some easy warm-ups and post-ride stretches.

• Before the ride. It's worth looking a little silly in your driveway for a minute or two so your hips don't lock up at traffic lights. Try one or two dynamic moves, like leg swings or high knees to wake up your hips. A couple of jumping jacks will get that blood pumping so you're raring to go.
• After the ride. Two minutes of post-ride stretching will help make sure you can actually get out of your office chair tomorrow without groaning like an old wooden floorboard. Try a forward fold or a standing quad stretch after your ride to keep everything loose and comfortable.

Can't get outside? Ride inside!

I never once regretted investing in a smart trainer. A basic smart trainer plus ROUVY removes all the things that keep cyclists off their bikes: bad weather, bad traffic and a bad case of nerves. It's always sunny on ROUVY, and you can join group rides, sign up for workouts, climb the Swiss Alps or cruise sunny coastal routes without ever worrying about a car riding your back fender.

The trainer and ROUVY can control your effort, so you get a workout that is exactly as hard – or as easy – as you want it to be. You'll get those base miles in so you know you're ready when you hit the road. And you'll build up your confidence while getting stronger.

Riding on a trainer is a great way to get used to riding a bike without the fear of cars. I learned how to use my clipless pedals on the smart trainer, making it much easier when I finally took them on the road. And you definitely won't have to worry about getting lost or getting a flat tyre if you're by yourself.

Beginner mistakes

As a beginner, the most important thing is to have a safe and fun ride. The rest will happen in time. For now, skip these newbie mistakes.

• Underwear. Somebody has to be the one to tell you this, so it might as well be me. Don't wear underwear with your bike shorts.
• Doing too much too soon. Don't try to be a Tour de France winner on the first day. You'll only set yourself up for injury, crashing and major disappointment. Instead, start small and build up gradually. It'll be more fun and you'll be less likely to get injured.
• Skip the Strava. Seriously, don't chase numbers when you're new. (Save that for much later, when you're so obsessed with your new hobby that you can't turn back.) There will always be someone riding faster and going further so don't worry about it. Ride your bike, the way you like to ride, at a speed that feels good to you.

And always remember, a reasonable bike with a helmet is all you need to call yourself a real cyclist.

I can't say it enough, just get on your bike and ride.